Southwest Frameworks offers complete frame refinishing.

From reproducing traditional paint schemes to extensive original artwork and airbrushing, Southwest Frameworks offers paint work to satisfy the most discriminating tastes. From the Retro-Grouch to the cutting-edge minimalist, we can get you on the road (or dirt) wth style.

Original decal replacement is usually available. However, on some more obsecure or rare frames where replacement decals are not available, Southwest Frameworks can produce paint masks or vinyl reproductions.

Custom Finish:
- Frame is chemically stripped (except carbon fiber).
- Frame is placed on the alignment table and realigned if necessary.
- Frame is inspected for dents, defects, pitting, etc.
- Any small defects are filled in with polyester resin at no charge.
- Frame is then given a low-pressure, aluminum oxide blast (except carbon fiber).
- An etching primer is applied, followed by a sealer primer.
- The color is then applied, followed by the first clear coat.
- After wet-sanding, decals are applied, followed by another clear coat.
- After another wet-sanding, the final clear coat is applied, and the frame is baked (except carbon fiber).

We use automotive paint for refinishing. To match an automotive color, we need the basic color, make, model, and year of the auto. Example: Dark Blue, 2001, BMW, M5. We can also work off of a color sample. Colors seen on web sites usually can't be matched due to the differences in color monitors. It's best to get an exact paint code from an automotive paint retailer. Most shops don't mind letting you look through their color books. We use PPG automotive paint, but can match a paint code from most other paint companies. An exception to this would be IMRON Fleet colors.

Current Paint Price List

~ REFINISHING ~

o Custom one color finish - $265.00
o Custom one color tandem finish - $450.00
o Additional colors - $55.00 each
o Prices reflect standard solid or metallic automotive paint. For other paint see
below.

~ SPECIAL FINISHES ~

* Additional Clear Coats - $40.00
* Candy Colors - $50.00 extra per color.
* Pearls - $35.00 extra
* Fluorescent - $35.00 extra

~ DECALS ~

Please leave the decals to us.  Many of the decals that are available from web-based auction 
sites are of an inferior quality, or are "New Old Stock", which for decals is usually not a good 
thing.  Many are also color printed on vinyl, and when applied to the bike, are so thick 
they leave an edge that you can see and feel.  We have access to decals that are not 
available to the general public, but only recognized bicycle frame painters.  They are a 
very high quality dry-application decal.  In most cases, you won't save any money by 
getting them yourself, as our cost is usually equal to or less then web-based auction sites.  

If you have your own decals and still want us to use, please contact us first.  

 

* Tubing decal (when available) - $9-25.00
* Original decals (when available) - $15-75.00
* Custom decals and paint masks - price upon request.

~ MASKING ~

o Masking is required to save existing chrome or to paint lugs, tubes, or crown different colors.
o Both head lugs - $60.00
o Head lugs, fancy - Price quote.
o Fork dropout faces (both) - $20.00
o Rearend dropout faces (both) - $20.00
o Fork crown - $40.00
o Lower half of fork blades - $25.00
o Rear dropout faces and right chanstay - $40.00
o Back half of rear triangle - $50.00

~ MISCELLANEOUS ~

+ Pinstriping: plain lugs & crown - $45.00
+ fancy lugs and crown - Price quote
+ Pump in base color - $20.00
+ Stem in base color - $20.00
+ Water bottle cages in base color - $10.00 each
+ Graphics/airbrush work - prices upon request
+ Chrome - prices upon request.
+ Repair large dents - call for estimate
+ Remove heade badge and fill holes - $12.00
+ Refinish suspension fork - from $75.00
+ Refinish rigid fork - from $50.00
+ Exact color match to original finish - call for estimate
+ Basic helmet refinish (matching bike finish) - $65.00
+ Internal rust converter treatment - $20.00
+ Frame Saver treatment - $15.00
+ Rush fee (less than 2 weeks) - $50.00
+ Strip and blast frame (other than carbon!) - $90.00

~ FRAME REPAIRS ~

+ Top or downtube replacement - $125.00
+ Headtube replacement - $100.00
+ Seattube replacement - $225.00
+ Chainstay replacement - $125.00
+ Seatstay replacement - Price quote
+ Rear dropout replacement (each) - $100.00
+ Frame alignment - $60.00
+ Fork alignment - $25.00

~ BRAZE-ONS ~

* Toptube guides (each) - $12.00
* Water bottle bosses (each set) - $20.00
* Bottom bracket guides - $20.00
* Shift lever bosses (pair) - $25.00
* Cable stop/guides (each) - $15.00
* Chain hanger - $12.00
* Quickchanger - $20.00
* Front derailleur hanger - $30.00
* Cantilever brake bosses (two) - $40.00
* Pump peg - $12.00
* Remove braze-ons - $5.00

Southwest Frameworks warrents all work to be free from defects in materials and workmanship for 25 months. Work determined to be defective, by us, will be repaired or refinished at our discretion. Shipping back to you will be at no charge.

If you need more information on paint, please feel free to give us a call at 214.358.2579.

Click here for a PDF of the price list

How to pack a frame for shipment.

Materials:

The first thing you need for packing your frame for shipment is a good, sturdy, bike box. If you can get a new box, that's the best way to go. If not, you must use a used box. You can usually get these from the local bike shop. Just ask for one! The shops usually just throw their boxes away. If possible get two; one to pack the frame in, and the other to cut up for cushining the frame. More on that later. Get the best box you can. Try to avoid boxes with holes in them or missing flaps.

Take all the components off the frame. If you can't get the bottom bracket and/or headset off, just leave them in and we can take care of them for you. In the case of stuck seatposts, stems, etc., check with us before shipping the frame.

It's best to wrap the frame in bubble wrap, but if that's not available, just add extra packing material around the frame.

First, cut off the flaps of one of the bike boxes. Then cut them into 10"-12" strips. Fold them over to make as many rings or boxes as possible. These will be used for cushoning for the bottom and either end of the bike box. Cut enough to fill the bottom of the box. Then wad up lots of newspaper and lay that in the bottom of the box.

Another way to cushion the bottom of the box is to wad up plenty of newspapers and place them in the box. Then cut a piece of the first box to fit in the bottom of the box.

Now cut another piece of the first box and make a card about 8" wide and long enough to strap the fork to. After the fork it strapped to this card, the card is strapped to the seatstays of the frame.

Now cut another piece of the the first box and make a card the size of the fork. The fork will be strapped to this card, and the card will be strapped to the seatstays of the frame.

If you have bubble wrap, wrap it around the frame. When applying the strapping tape, please fold over about 1"-2" onto itself. This will help us pull the tape off and your ears won't burn form what we'll be calling you!

Take three of the cardboard rings and tape them at the headtube, bottom bracket, and seat binder-bolt area. If you have enough rings left, you might as well put as many as possible around the frame. The more the better.

Now put the frame in the box. Fill in the empty space with wadded up newspaper or other packing material. Feel free to place more rings in front of and behind the frame.

If you have a new headset or bottom bracket you want us to install, pack them in the box also.

The average shipping weight is 16-17 lbs. For FedEx shipping.

Resprays are shipped back to you in new boxes. Neither FedEx nor UPS will pay a claim for damages unless you are shipping in a new box.

The following photos illustrate a good way to pack a frame for shipping.

If you can't get a new bike box, get two good used boxes from the local bike shop.

Cut the flaps off of one of the boxes. Also cut several strips as wide as the box is. Most bike boxes are 8" wide.
Roll several of the strips into rings and tape them.
Lay the rings in the bottom of the shipping box. Fill in any empty spaces with wadded-up newspaper.
Now lay one of the flaps over the rings and newspaper filler.
Secure the fork to a piece cut off of the first box.
Secure the fork to the rearend of the frame
Wrap the frame with pieces from the first box. Use lots of tape to hold the frame secure.
Place the frame into the box. If the box has room on either end, fill this space with more rolled up rings.
Now pack any empty space with wadded-up newspaper, seal the box, and it's ready to ship.